|Read and follow the instructions that came with your controller, The following information will help make the instructions "make sense".|
Types of Controllers.
Time is really just like a dimmer switch in your house. You "turn it up" and when you hit the brakes, it supplies a pre-set voltage to the trailer. Every time. If you set it to "half way" it will give 6 volts to the trailer every time you hit the brakes. Turn it up or down, and you get more or less. Simple to use, and install. But, in a panic stop, you still get only that 6 volts you had it set at. In stop and go traffic, you get that same jerky brake setting. So, you set it for strong braking, and you will find you are stopping BEFORE the intersection. Too light a setting, and you blow through the stop sign. I would say this is for the person that rarely pulls a trailer, and is looking for simple.
Inertia types have a sensor (usually a pendulum) that senses how hard you are tying to stop, and increases voltage to the trailer the harder you stop the truck. This is better design, but typically must be "leveled" to operate correctly (the pendulum) . Some of the cheaper models are sensitive to road bumps while braking, and can get jerky. The better Models offer self leveling, and gyroscope sensing electronics that compensate for all directions of movement, and offer truly seamless trailer braking. I personally sell both types, with the Tekonsha Prodigy being my best controller.
Hooking up the controller:
Trucks, cars and vans vary allot! The factories intended many vehicles to pull trailers, (hint, they installed the factory tow package) so they may have much of the wire you need already installed. Have a look under your dash, under the hood, in the owners manual, and call your dealer.
The brake controller normally has 4 wires to connect. I have used the colors used on Tekonsha Controllers. I find most makers use the same colors, but the function is what is important, not the color, so check yours first! The heavy gauge Blue wire is ALWAYS the wire to the back of the truck, to the trailer brakes:
Wire 1: (red)
Wire 2: (black)
Wire 3: (white)
Wire 4: (blue)
That's it! Just screw it to the dash, where you can reach it, but not in the way. (read the instructions for limitations on mounting)
Find a rubber plug in the dash, and try to poke a hole in it, rather than drilling a hole in the metal firewall.
Anywhere the wire might get cut, use a heavy dose of Silicone to glue the wire in place (like the hole you drilling in the firewall)
Make sure all wire under the dash is tied up well away from the pedal linkage, and steering column! the first one installed. all the wire got wrapped around the steering column, pulled all the wire loose, blew fuses, and made a mess!
Many trucks do not have the tow package, but still have the plug under the dash. It is not run to the back or the truck, but it gives you that all elusive brake light signal you need!
Most 96- up Dodges, and 94 -up Fords, and 99 - up GM/Chevy have a plug from the factory under the dash. This is a real help. Even still, look around for that Large Blue wire, or other clues that the factory may have done some of the work. Look under the dash for any plug that has the 4 wires, or has a heavy Blue Wire.
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